COMMUNITY

Community  /  Forums  /  The Best 3 wood in your bag (or not in your bag)
The Best 3 wood in your bag (or not in your bag)
Glennehurst
Professional Champion
 
274 Views    13 Replies    1 Like   I like it!
I am shopping around to replace my outdated Orlimar Trimetal 14 degree 3 wood. I have hit them all and even purchased a couple preowned to try out (TM V steel and Sonartec SS03 14 degree. So far the best 3 wood I have found for me is the Callaway xhot Pro 14.5 degree with the Project X 6.0 shaft. Second to that would be the Ping Anser 3 14.5 degree. My driver swing speed is 97-98 MPH.

Anyone have some other suggestions?

I really like the Sonartec SS03 14 degree head but do not like the stock shaft so I am thinking about buying the Project X 6.0 shaft and installing replacing it in that club.
What are you thoughts on that?
Don Freeman
Professional Champion
 
# 1    9/4/2013 12:53:57 PM   
I had the TM Vsteel. Good club. But I changed to the RBZ 3 wood. I like it much better.


HOGAN418
Professional Champion
 
# 2    9/4/2013 12:55:49 PM   
I also had the Orlimar trimetal 3 wood... I went with the Taylor Made Superfast series... I really like it... you just need to hit some and see what you like best.. What is your driver and try to match... less deviation seems to be better..


Glennehurst
Professional Champion
 
# 3    9/4/2013 1:01:43 PM   

I also had the Orlimar trimetal 3 wood... I went with the Taylor Made Superfast series... I really like it... you just need to hit some and see what you like best.. What is your driver and try to match... less deviation seems to be better..


My current driver is the Taylormade R1 with TP Aldilia RIP Phenom Stiff 65. I carry it 255. That is the problem now as I have too big a gap from my current 3 wood and driver. I carry my current 3 wood 225. My 4 wood carry is 210. 3 hybrid 200.

Just trying to even up the gaps.


HOGAN418
Professional Champion
 
# 4    9/4/2013 1:03:42 PM   
I hear the Rocketballz 3 wood is rediculously Long... that might help wtih the gaps.. get 3 wood and 5 wood...


HOGAN418
Professional Champion
 
# 5    9/4/2013 1:14:59 PM   
http://www.globalgolf.com/prod..

Here you go... SOLD!!!!


JD
LowIndex
 
# 6    9/4/2013 8:55:40 PM   
i had the rbz 3 wood. hated it. could wreck it, but keeping it straight 50% of the time was unacceptable. i have the ping i20 3w now and love it. its a little shorter, but 265-270 straight it better than 280-285 who knows where it'll end up


dewsweeper
Legend
 
# 7    9/4/2013 10:33:48 PM   
This head
http://www.kzg.com/sites/cours..
+ this shaft
http://www.monarkgolf.com/accu..

The low spin head and the 70 gm shaft worked very well together.


Shawn Overley
Professional Champion
 
# 8    9/5/2013 7:45:55 AM   
For me, it depends on the use. I rarely need to hit a 3 wood from the fairway since I can hit my 2 hybrid from 220-240. If I put a 3W in my bag if I am playing somewhere I can't hit 300 off the tee, I go with my TM R9 13* with V2 shaft. I can carry it about 270 off the tee but struggle with some lies. I also have a Titleist 975F 15* with Proforce shaft that I hit better from the fairway but obviously can;t hit it as long. I will put that in my bag if I am playing somewhere with some long par 5. I fell in love with the 975F 3W and 5W years ago and only got the TM since it was such a good deal preowned. Without a 3W in my bag I end up with a pretty big gap below my driver but it has rarely been an issue.


Mark Simmons
Legend
 
# 9    9/5/2013 2:31:13 PM   
Glen, the responses from Shawn and a couple of others brought up an important consideration. What is the NEED you are trying to address with the 3-metal?

We had another recent thread on this club that uncovered that how we are using 3-metals varied widely and really impacted what we had (or wanted to have) in our bag. Also, as Shawn indicated, some golfers are going with hybrids INSTEAD of a 3-metal (and certainly a 5-metal). So it really starts with what 'hole' in your bag are you trying to fill with this club.

Some exclusively use the 3-metal off the tee. Others (like me) virtually never have that need (we'll use a hybrid or choke down driver with an easy or 3/4 swing).

Some exclusively use the 3-metal from the fairway; others prefer a hybrid.

Some put a premium on a 3-metal they can hit out of light rough; others echew that club for another in those circumstances.

Some want a club that will do all of the above.

Which are you?


Glennehurst
Professional Champion
 
# 10    9/5/2013 2:42:12 PM   

Glen, the responses from Shawn and a couple of others brought up an important consideration. What is the NEED you are trying to address with the 3-metal?

We had another recent thread on this club that uncovered that how we are using 3-metals varied widely and really impacted what we had (or wanted to have) in our bag. Also, as Shawn indicated, some golfers are going with hybrids INSTEAD of a 3-metal (and certainly a 5-metal). So it really starts with what 'hole' in your bag are you trying to fill with this club.

Some exclusively use the 3-metal off the tee. Others (like me) virtually never have that need (we'll use a hybrid or choke down driver with an easy or 3/4 swing).

Some exclusively use the 3-metal from the fairway; others prefer a hybrid.

Some put a premium on a 3-metal they can hit out of light rough; others echew that club for another in those circumstances.

Some want a club that will do all of the above.

Which are you?


All good questions and observations. I will use my last round as an example. I hit my current 3 wood 4 times off the tee. All on tight 355 to 400 par 4's. I hit the 3 wood from the deck on two par 5's. The reason I use my 3 wood over the driver is distance and control. After analyzing all my rounds I think my greatest need is from the tee first and 2nd shots in par 5's.


Mark Simmons
Legend
 
# 11    9/5/2013 7:33:52 PM   
All good questions and observations. I will use my last round as an example. I hit my current 3 wood 4 times off the tee. All on tight 355 to 400 par 4's. I hit the 3 wood from the deck on two par 5's. The reason I use my 3 wood over the driver is distance and control. After analyzing all my rounds I think my greatest need is from the tee first and 2nd shots in par 5's.

So I noticed Glen that you already invested time in trying out clubs at the retailer and even with demo clubs on the course when possible. That is a really good practice. Because you use the 3-metal off the tee and in the fairway, it will be important to hit each club teed up as you would on the course as well as off a tight lie. Usually the latter means hitting off a mat. Mats can cover up the consequences of mishits. They also are usually flat as a board and fairways are not. So I'd really try to get the club out on the course before you buy.

For those of you who use your 3-metal from light rough this is even more important.

I'm also convinced that a proper fitting can make a huge difference in a 3-metal's performance. Some even make the case that the shaft is more important than the head when it comes to 3-metal. I'm not sure I'd take it that far, but clearly both are important and in most discussions the shaft doesn't get it's due.


Glennehurst
Professional Champion
 
# 12    9/6/2013 9:41:50 AM   

All good questions and observations. I will use my last round as an example. I hit my current 3 wood 4 times off the tee. All on tight 355 to 400 par 4's. I hit the 3 wood from the deck on two par 5's. The reason I use my 3 wood over the driver is distance and control. After analyzing all my rounds I think my greatest need is from the tee first and 2nd shots in par 5's.

So I noticed Glen that you already invested time in trying out clubs at the retailer and even with demo clubs on the course when possible. That is a really good practice. Because you use the 3-metal off the tee and in the fairway, it will be important to hit each club teed up as you would on the course as well as off a tight lie. Usually the latter means hitting off a mat. Mats can cover up the consequences of mishits. They also are usually flat as a board and fairways are not. So I'd really try to get the club out on the course before you buy.

For those of you who use your 3-metal from light rough this is even more important.

I'm also convinced that a proper fitting can make a huge difference in a 3-metal's performance. Some even make the case that the shaft is more important than the head when it comes to 3-metal. I'm not sure I'd take it that far, but clearly both are important and in most discussions the shaft doesn't get it's due.




Great info and advice. The shaft is why I am leaning towards reshafting my current 3 wood. My swing has improved over the years and speed has increased thus a new shaft may be in order. I can get the shaft I was fitted for for a 1/3 of the actual club price however the new club head may give me some advantages as well. That is the crux of the matter. Decisions Decisions....


Nicholas Agnello
Professional Champion
 
# 13    9/9/2013 11:50:06 AM   
I just bagged an xhot 3 wood. The extra .5 inch of shaft hasn't effected my consistancy. I am a touch longer which is nice, but most of all the head shape and turf interaction from the sole seem to really fit my swing. Stock Velocity Stiff. Wish it had the pros' genuine article project x shaft and didn't have the jersey shore trible tattoo graphic on the shaft (puke), but I hit it fine with the stock shaft and don't see it leaving. I had a rotating cast of characters in the 3 wood slot and kept coming back to a trusty TM burner. I think its finally met it's match.