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Shape of the club faces are different. How you set up for each one is different as well. I had the same problem. I had to go to a pro for a quick lesson and then it worked.

My father in law is going through the same problems. Switching from a wooden, yes wooden, PING to a new big head driver. His problem from what i can see is he's still trying to hit it like he did his old woody. Teeing it low, almost to the ground and in the middle of his stance. I've tried giving some advice and when he take's it he straightens it out but gradually reverts back to his old ways and wonders why he's hitting a high slice again. Oh well.

Are the Grips the same size? maybe a new set of New Gloves,will fix the SLICE!

Tracy, not enough information to tell you exactly why, but enough to limit the possibilities.

From you description, in both cases you are hitting the ball with the club face open. The difference between the two is only in the degree the face is open.

1. The most likely possibility is a difference is the mass of the two clubs.
- If your tendency is to come over the top, you won't do it quite so much with a heavier club. It's just harder to re-route the club.
- Same thing if you are used to manipulating the club with your hands. Just harder to get there with more mass.
- Most of us cast the club meaning we've stopped accelerating the club head long before it reaches the ball. A club with more mass will then attempt to close the face more than a lighter club head.

2. Another possibility is a difference in the torque characteristics of the shafts or how they react to the different heads.

3. Then it could be a difference in the way the head is set up. How the mass is distributed in the head, lie angle, or fade or draw bias. Think of the newer clubs like the Taylormade R11. Just because a club head doesn't have these adjustable features doesn't mean there aren't differences in how different make/models of club heads are set up.

A lot of this argues for why getting fit is so important.

Just need to go the the range and hit a ton of balls and see if you can figure it out or at least have a Pro look at your swing~Good Luck!!

I remember those "Pittsburgh Persimmons." Cool clubs!

There could be a lot of factors that are going into the Adams not performing well, but I'm gonna tell you this. Modern drivers have NO feel. They are simply too light and long. No feel means you don't know where the club is pointing. It's all a guess. Would you want to swing at a baseball with a bat 1/4 the weight of a standard bat? Hell no you wouldn't. How would you control it?

Riddle me THIS: The PGA Tour driving distance average has only gone up by about 5 yards since the late 90s (when most golfers were using drivers similar to your Taylormade, with short steel shafts). At the same time, driving accuracy has gone DOWN about 3 or 4 points, and the driving accuracy leaders today are nowhere close to the accuracy leaders from as recent as 10 years ago.

Now what does THAT tell you? I'll tell you what it tells ME. It tells me that these $400 drivers they are selling aren't much better, if at all, than the stuff they had out pre-2000. But people are buying them, so why stop making them? Companies are making boatloads of cash off of weekend warriors.

I frequently play my persimmon woods. I'm more accurate with them, first of all...and I only lose about 10-15 yards versus my modern equipment...and a lot of that is due to the shorter, heavier shaft. Ever paced off 10 yards on the course? It's NOTHING. Maybe take one more club into the green...WHOOP DEE DOO.

Bottom line...if that club works for you, then get rid of the Adams and GOLF YOUR BALL. Don't give a flying you-know-what if someone says "Why are you swinging that old thing?" Just stripe it down the middle and take their money on the 18th green.

Club face is most likely designed to be more open than the TaylorMade. Even the TM is open-faced(trust me - I know!) You should not be slicing if your grip position and swing are correct(or at least close.) Try a Krank driver. They also create less spin, let the ball travel straighter AND farther. At least have your local pro shop gauge the club faces of your drivers. Then either correct your positions(I wouldn't) or get a straight-faced club, or a draw-driver.

Funny... I am a manufacturer rep for Mechanix Wear into the military retail channel. I prefer the Original Coverts myself....

There's TOO MUCH clubface, I hit my 3W better than my driver because it's the same size as the old style drivers.
It's like hitting a finishing nail with a sledge hammer.

The trick is the "Old TM" is technically my newer club. I have an issue slicing my Adams I bought a few tears back. A slight miss-hit on the Adams should not be as bad as a shot as a slight miss-hit on the old school TM club I picked up this year. My logic is by swinging the "Harder to hit" old school club, if I can straighten it out, it should carry over to my newer clubs that should be more forgiving. I should also be further off target with the old school club if something is slightly off. Once I had a good swing down using that club, I would start practicing more with the Adams.

I know my swing is not the best but I would expect a newer club to be more forgiving than the TM that was sold before I made it into middle school in the '80s.

Think of it this way, When learning to hit a baseball, if you practice by swinging at balls the size of a golf ball, you will be able to hit the larger baseball more often. I was purposely trying to use a harder to hit club (in theory) as a tool to get my swing plane etc down which should then transfer to the easier to hit club. I actually hit the old school TM better. I was on the course this weekend and hit it 276yds measured in the fairway.... My Easier to hit Adams may get retired.....

TNVol-in-TX I'm having a similar problem ... one thing I have figured out is that the longer shafts are not as stable as the shorter old shafts.

The bigger heads on the new drivers make them a little too whippy. Try choking down on the club about an inch and see if it helps with control. I know its a bit of the same old same old but it really does help keep the ball in play.

I had the same issuu first started golfing, for me turned out to be the old drivers shafts are shorter than the newer drivers by about 2 inches in some cases which threw my set up and swing off. To this day I can hit my 3 wood better and with more control than the driver because the new 3 woods are the old drivers length.

According to my coach a longer shaft that your not use to you will slice the the ball. You have to make adjustments and like everyone else has said, hit a ton of balls! I would look at getting fitted to, too many peeps over look getting fitted, we all swing different with different club head speed. For me the new longer shaft of the Taylor Made driver 2.0 burner, I'm going through the same issue. I have a Adams Speedline 12.5 loft, but I get more distance with the Taylor cause of length, more flexible shaft and loft is 13, and for my granny swing speed, it suits my skill level for now.

Keep hitting with it and it will come together!!

:)

You've fallen into the classic trap of single factor analysis. There are a lot more factors going on here besides how "forgiving" the head is.

DING DING DING DING... I think we have a winner. My golf lesson is 10am on the 19th. The pro I am seeing is good and it is as soon as I could get in.....

I really know the problem is my swing and my head but I am a logical person and if you believe the advertising, you should be able to hit a 2007+ yr driver that you have owned for 4 years better than a 1980 driver you have owned for a couple of months.... It has me reconsider my shafts etc. Once I get the planes and tempo down... it will be fitting time again...